An Introduction to the Isle of Harris
Many people will be aware of the type of cloth known as Harris Tweed which is so called because it is hand made on the Isle of Harris. However, even though tourism generates an important income for islanders, the Isle of Harris, in the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides of Scotland, is not generally wide known as a vacation destination. However the island has much to offer the visitor.
The main town, and ferry port, on the Isle of Harris is Tarbert. Tarbert is not really a town but rather a small village found at the narrow isthmus which is the border between North and South Harris. Set in a sheltered green valley the houses appear on steep terraces. The older buildings are found on the narrow main street which is rather picturesque but sadly rather congested at times. Below the main street is a relatively new road built to ease congestion and provide more space for ferry traffic.
North Harris is rather rocky with huge jagged mountains that dominate the skyline and prove popular with many hill walkers. There are a number of challenging walks which usually take about an hour. Driving around North Harris you may find yourself a little confused as you approach Amhuinnsuide Castle (pronounced rather like 'avan-soo-ee'). As you approach the castle you get the feeling that you have somehow ended up on a private road. Strangely the public highway passes right through the main entrance and passed the front door.
About 15 minutes drive from Tarbert is the small island called the Isle of Scalpay which is joined to the Isle of Harris by a narrow single track bridge. Scalpay once had a population of well over 800 and was an incredibly busy fishing community. Today the population is less than 300 but there is still a small but active fishing fleet. The north harbour is where you will find the pier but one of the best places to visit involves a trek across open moorland. Eilean Glas lighthouse was the first built in Scotland erected in 1788. Now automated the buildings and surrounding grounds are both beautiful and interesting.
South Harris is very different to North Harris and many consider this area to be the most beautiful on the Isle of Harris. On the east side it is very rocky with many rocky coves and single track roads which twist and turn endlessly. On the west coast it is far greener with large area of machair leading onto some of the finest beaches in Scotland and views out to the island of Taransay (which hosted a survival type of televised competition some years ago).
Moving southwards you will notice many of the beaches to your right and, without noticing, you will be so astounded by the spectacular sights that you will, most probably, slow down dramatically. Please be prepared for this reaction as it may alarm anyone who is driving behind you. Even though many locals witness this often in the summer months it does not get any easier dealing with the anger this dangerous reaction causes.
The largest village on South Harris is Leverburgh. It is at Leverburgh that you can catch a CalMac ferry over to Berneray and the Uists. If you need to purchase fuel or supplies you will find a well stocked local shop and a local post office, which also stocks gifts and other interesting items.
From Leverburgh onwards the road now remains inland but it is only a short distance to the last village of Rodel. At one time this was the main village on the Isle of Harris but has long since lost it's importance. It is also at Rodel that you will find one of the best tourist attractions on the Isle of Harris, the medieval St Clements Church. It is well worth a visit and after a walk in the graveyard you can call inside (the keys can be picked up at the nearby hotel) and see the incredible interior with intricately decorated tombs.
Filed under Leisure Travel by John Angus Macleod
